Image: Parminder Singh
David Longstreath  /  AP
Sikh martial arts instructor Parminder Singh stands outside the Sikh temple of Siri Guru Sabha in Bangkok, Thailand. An estimated 140,000 of Bangkok's 10 plus million people have roots in modern India making their presence felt in tailor shops, the gem trade and hotels.
updated 8/26/2009 9:36:45 AM ET 2009-08-26T13:36:45

Outdoor markets tout sari sales, five-star hotels feature Indian chefs and Thais drop by a temple in the financial district to beseech Hindu gods to send profits their way.

India pops up in unexpected places in the Thai capital with the country's ancient Hindu civilization infusing the Thai language, classical dance and religious architecture.

An estimated 140,000 of the city's 10-plus million residents have roots in modern India, making their presence amply felt in Bangkok's hotels, markets, tailor shops, the gem trade, cricket leagues and contemporary art galleries.

"It's a little-known Indian diaspora community compared to those in places like the United Kingdom or the United States — but perhaps equally influential," says Christopher Rego, a documentary filmmaker who selected Bangkok as the starting point for a multimedia project on the world's Indian communities. "It's like a microcosm of India's diversity."

Indian influences appear all across this sprawling city. Sukhumvit, an area popular with expats, has a plethora of Indian restaurants and major hotels operated by members of the Sikh community, many of whom have become extremely wealthy. In fact, large chunks of real estate in this area are owned by Thai-Indians.

On the other side of town, far from Sukhumvit's modern buildings and Western chain restaurants, Bangkok's official "Little India" borders the vast markets of Chinatown. The golden domed Sri Guru Singh Sabha, believed to be the largest Sikh temple in Southeast Asia, towers over the area known as Phahurat, formerly an important center for the textile trade.

Rolls of cloth are still sold at Phahurat's Indian markets, along with Punjabi sweets, incense sticks, jewelry and the latest Bollywood hits on DVD. The setting is less intimidating than the larger labyrinths of Chinatown.

Royal India, said to be Thailand's first Indian restaurant, is tucked into a small alley in the heart of Phahurat, across the street from the four-story India Emporium. Bangkok's Indian community and foreign visitors alike occupy the restaurant's seven wooden tables where chicken masala and other traditional spice-laden dishes from northern India are served.

The Sikh temple in Phahurat remains very much a community place of worship, but the Hindu temple across town is a true religious melting pot. Thais and Chinese pay respect to the Hindu Goddess Uma Thewi at the Sri Mahamariamman Temple off Silom Road. Next door, Chennai Kitchen prepares fresh vegetarian food characteristic of southern India.

Tamil priests built the temple near what is now Bangkok's financial district. The current priest is a fourth generation Tamil immigrant, but many devotees are Thai Buddhists who worship Hindu gods.

O

Image:
David Longstreath  /  AP
Sikh women, their hands adorned with henna, show off their patterns to one another prior to a wedding at the Sikh temple Siri Guru Singh Sabha in Bangkok, Thailand.
ne of Bangkok's top tourist draws is the Erawan Shrine, built in 1956 to ward off problems plaguing the construction of an adjoining hotel. Daily, crowds flock to a golden image piled high with flowers and incense as dancers pay homage to the four-faced Hindu god Brahma.

Although some 95 percent of Thais are Buddhists, many include elements of Hinduism in worship stemming from cultural and religious influences which flowed across the Indian Ocean to reach Southeast Asia centuries ago.

The khon — a popular, dramatic form of Thai classical dance- tells the stories of the Ramayana, an ancient Hindu epic. Thai royal ceremonies are infused with Hindu-Brahmin rituals, and many words in the Thai language originated from Sanskrit.

In more recent times, Tamils and Gujaratis migrated to Thailand in the late 1800s, trading in gems and textiles. Large-scale modern migration from northwest India began in the 1890s, followed by a wave of Sikhs and Hindus from the Punjab.

"We ourselves are Thais, but we have an Indian look," said Jesse Gulati, 59, owner of Rajawongse tailor shop, echoing many among the community. Gulati and son Victor fill orders for international businessmen, visiting heads of state and diplomats.

  1. Don't miss these Travel stories
    1. Lords of the gourd compete for Punkin Chunkin honors

      With teams using more than 100 unique apparatuses to launch globular projectiles a half-mile or more, the 27th annual World Championship Punkin Chunkin event is our pick as November’s Weird Festival of the Month.

    2. Airports, airlines work hard to return your lost items
    3. Expert: Tourist hordes threaten Sistine Chapel's art
    4. MGM Grand wants Las Vegas guests to Stay Well
    5. Report: Airlines collecting $36.1B in fees this year

Gulati's father migrated to Thailand in the 1930s, a move that actually strengthened the family's cultural and religious ties to India. "We were more Sikh, more religious in Bangkok than the Sikhs in India were," Gulati said.

The tight-knit Sikh community began to really prosper at the outset of the country's tourist boom in the 1970s, renting apartments as well as building and running hotels.

Many of Bangkok's individual Indian communities, including the Sikhs, have now seen their third or fourth generations grow up in Thailand. Assimilation adds another chapter to the cultural narrative of Bangkok's India.

"Some youth are becoming westernized, living in Bangkok," Gulati said, without a trace of irony. And Thai-Indian marriages, once a rarity, are now more common as Thais shed some once strongly held prejudices against the immigrants who were referred to as "khaek," or guests, as in "unwelcome guests."

"The third generation is more accepted by Thai people," said Asha Sehgal, a second generation Thai-Indian.

Indus, a hip venue run by Asha's son Sid, showcases a blending of old and new India. Thais, Indians and other expats dine in equal numbers amid a backdrop of traditional and contemporary art Asha imports from India.

Bangkok, an international foodie paradise, is warming up to Indian cuisine, and Indian DJs no longer play to exclusively Indian audiences, says Sid Sehgal.

Nat Tuli, owner of Gallery Soulflower, said her shows of contemporary Indian artists in Bangkok are actually more popular among Thais and foreigners than ethnic Indian youth.

Copyright 2009 The Associated Press. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.

Discuss:

Discussion comments

,

Most active discussions

  1. votes comments
  2. votes comments
  3. votes comments
  4. votes comments