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updated 7/30/2011 8:40:12 PM ET 2011-07-31T00:40:12

Ground zero of the debt crisis in Washington just might be Speaker John A. Boehner’s call center, hidden away in a corner of the Capitol, where five besieged staff members have as many as 300 people on hold at a time. “Diane from Oregon” managed to get through on Thursday to tell the center’s director, Thomas A. Andrews, that Mr. Boehner should “cut spending now.”

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Mr. Andrews, 24, thanked her for her thoughts, then checked to see how long her wait time had been. “Oh, it’s actually down to 30 minutes,” he said, cheered that it was not an hour and a half. Quickly, he returned to work, where the rest of an astonishing deluge — 15,000 voice mail messages and 30,000 e-mails a day — cried out for his attention.

If the rest of the country thinks Washington has gone mad this summer, that is pretty much the view in this bewildered capital, too, even in Mr. Boehner’s overwhelmed call center.

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Among the bar patrons at the Old Ebbitt Grill worried about stock portfolios, the tourists anxious about disability checks and the current and former policy makers stunned by Washington paralysis, the mood was described variously as one of doom, disgust and disbelief.

Washington is talking of little else.

“I never saw anything like this, and I never thought I would see anything like this,” said Laurence H. Meyer, a former Federal Reserve governor who has been fielding calls to his Washington research firm, Macroeconomic Advisers, from worried hedge fund clients. “I never appreciated how dysfunctional our political system is.”

Tourists who have come from around the world to see messy American democracy in action are watching far more mess than they ever expected.

“You guys are nuts,” said Joseph Eastwood, 44, a Toronto accountant who was waiting in the Capitol Visitor Center for a tour last week. “Instead of building the country, you’re destroying it.”

Video: Capitol countdown on debt crisis (on this page)

A German tourist standing nearby was more tactful but was nonetheless perplexed as he tried to teach his two teenage children about the scale of United States debt. “They are not quite understanding the sum of money borrowed,” said Peter Radewahn, 54, the director of a Bonn lobbying group. (The United States has about $14 trillion in debt, which is 99.5 percent of its yearly economic output. Germany has $2.85 trillion in debt, or 80 percent of its output.)

Mr. Radewahn said he did not want to say more because he was a guest in America and wished to be diplomatic.

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At the Washington National Zoo on Saturday, Dean Thompson, 53, a Republican and a mechanical engineer visiting from Augusta, Ga., was filled with disdain for lawmakers of both parties on Capitol Hill. “They’re playing with people’s savings is what they’re doing,” he said. “It’s like a game to them.”

Senator Charles E. Schumer, Democrat of New York, fumed on Friday that although Mr. Boehner was throwing “piece after piece of red meat to his right-wing lions” — that is, Tea Party-allied Republicans who are steadfastly opposed to raising the debt limit — they were never sated.

Video: How do you make a deal in 72 hours? (on this page)

Of course, few could match the scorn last week of Senator John McCain, Republican of Arizona, who, quoting an editorial in The Wall Street Journal, derided the “Tea Party Hobbits.” (Senator Rand Paul of Kentucky, a Tea Party-allied Republican, later retorted, “I’d rather be a hobbit than a troll.”)

Beyond the sniping of opposing lawmakers, this legislative crisis has reached deeper into the layers of Washington, perhaps even more than the protracted debate over health care did.

Much of what is occurring in Congress may be incomprehensible, but the basic issue — that the United States needs to increase the limit on its credit card or not be able to pay its bills — is understood.

“I get people stopping me around the Capitol more, asking what’s going to happen,” said Kelly O’Donnell, the Capitol Hill correspondent for NBC, who said she was averaging about four hours of sleep a night. “A lot of kids ask, which is interesting.”

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One such visitor, Luke Stancil, 13, the chairman of the Teenage Republicans of Johnston County, N.C., had many questions and thoughts about the debt crisis during a trip to Washington last week.

While waiting to see Mr. Paul with a group of other teenage Republicans in the Cannon House Office Building on Thursday, Luke said that although he liked conservatives affiliated with the Tea Party, he felt that in the interest of the country they should support Mr. Boehner’s bill to raise the debt ceiling.

“That’s all they have now,” he said soberly. (Mr. Boehner ended up postponing the vote because of a lack of conservative support, but a modified bill was passed on Friday before it was killed later that day in the Senate.)

Meanwhile, weighing in from Chicago was its newly elected mayor, Rahm Emanuel, Mr. Obama’s incendiary former White House chief of staff, who, had he been in his old job, would have been engaged in hand-to-hand combat on Capitol Hill.

“I just passed four bills today, so I’m very happy,” Mr. Emanuel reported. Well, what did he make of what was going on in Washington? “My basic point is, look, your country requires you to take responsibility and understand what an honest compromise is,” he said. He declined to answer a question about whether he missed the capital.

At the Old Ebbitt Grill, across the street from the Treasury Department, Cory Carlson, a 27-year-old account executive for the EMC Corporation, a technology giant, was at the bar on Thursday with friends. Asked about the chaos on Capitol Hill, Mr. Carlson said that the health of the economy depended on Congress raising the debt limit and that he was worried about his investments. “Don’t get me started,” he said.

In front of the Treasury building on Friday, Margaret McCoy, a 64-year-old Democrat visiting from Pembroke, N.C., said she was worried, too — about her government disability checks.

“I’m fed up with it, just fed up with it,” she said, referring to the battle in Congress. “If their checks were cut like they said ours might be cut, I wonder how they would feel.”

She looked toward the White House and saw a knot of demonstrators. Were they protesting the debt crisis, she wondered, a note of hope in her voice.

Actually, no. The demonstrators were celebrating a White House visit by President Alpha Condé, considered Guinea’s first democratically elected leader. (A separate Guinean group was also protesting the visit.)

The Guineans in the pro-Condé group said they were astonished by the debt crisis and the chaos on Capitol Hill. “It’s crazy, it’s just crazy,” said Noumouke Cisse, 57, a taxi driver from New Haven. “They are the world leaders, you know? We are very surprised they continue to fight each other.”

This article, "Nation Calls Capital Mad, and It Agrees," first appeared in The New York Times.

Copyright © 2013 The New York Times

Video: Capitol countdown on debt crisis

  1. Transcript of: Capitol countdown on debt crisis

    LESTER HOLT, anchor: President Obama has stepped back into the fray over raising the nation 's borrowing limit after the Senate and House rejected each other's legislation. Here's where things stand right now. At this point, we're a little over 72 hours away from the point the nation will be unable to pay all of its bills and risk default. And against that looming deadline, the president today reopened a dialogue with Republican leaders who tonight now say they're confident the impasse will be broken in time. Democratic leaders, on the other hand , are far less optimistic. A deal, of course, is going to require

    something that up until now neither side has been keen on: compromise. That blatant partisanship that has led to this drama has a lot of us shaking our

    heads. On the NIGHTLY NEWS Facebook page we got an earful: "fed up and embarrassed," "horrified" and "nauseated" were just some of the many comments. We have a series of reports. We begin with NBC 's Luke Russert , who is on Capitol Hill now to tell us where things go from here. Luke , good evening.

    LUKE RUSSERT reporting: Good evening, Lester . In a special weekend session, both the House and Senate made clear what plans they would not support to extend the nation 's credit limit . And as it stands, leaders are still trying to find a compromise to avert default. The House and Senate continue trading shots as the clock ticks down to a possible default.

    Representative JOHN SHIMKUS (Republican, Illinois): It is long past time for the Senate to pass something. Their negligence threatens the fiscal health of this nation .

    Senator HARRY REID (Democrat, Majority Leader): What will they vote for?

    RUSSERT: The Republican -controlled House pulled the trigger first today, voting to reject a Senate Democratic debt limit extension plan even before its final version was offered.

    Unidentified Woman: And the bill is not passed.

    RUSSERT: Last night, Senate Democrats voted down a plan from House Speaker John Boehner , saying an addition of a balanced budget amendment to win over House conservatives went too far.

    Sen. REID: Tonight a bipartisan majority in the Senate rejected Boehner 's short-term plan.

    RUSSERT: As members scrambled to weekend strategy sessions...

    Representative NANCY PELOSI: Hi, Jimmy.

    RUSSERT: ...leaders came forward in dueling news conferences saying they wanted to find a solution.

    Senator MITCH McCONNELL (Republican, Minority Leader): We are now fully engaged, the speaker and I, with the one person in America out of 307 million people who can sign a bill into law.

    Sen. REID: We can still change this. If my Republican colleagues, acting in good faith, come to me with a proposal, that's what we will do.

    RUSSERT: Shortly after, Democratic leaders were called to the White House by President Obama to discuss a way forward; the next few days crucial to a resolution of the debt impasse. An early Sunday morning procedural vote in the Senate for the Reid plan. A final vote would have to come before Tuesday, the August 2nd debt deadline. This week has seen many angry constituents flooding congressional phone lines, demanding an answer to the debt crisis. Today even members of Congress got on the line to hear voters' concerns.

    Senator CLAIRE McCASKILL: This is Senator Claire McCaskill .

    RUSSERT: On a scorcher of a day in Washington , visitors waiting to tour the Capitol also weighed in.

    Unidentified Man #1: Social Security , we don't know what's going to happen with that.

    Unidentified Man #2: I think it's utterly ridiculous that our lawmakers can't come to some kind of consensus on what's best for the country.

    RUSSERT: Now, Lester , it's crunch time . We can report that the president has been in contact with Republican leaders by phone. We mentioned that Democratic leaders were recently just at the White House . When Senator Harry Reid returned to the Capitol , he was asked by reporters if the meeting led to them being closer to a compromise with Republicans ; he said the answer is no.

    Lester: Luke Russert on the Hill

    HOLT:

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    Ground zero of the debt crisis in Washington jus...

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    Capitol countdown on debt crisis

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    Debt daze: It's a mad, mad, mad, mad, mad, mad DC