Nightly News | May 26, 2013
>>> on this holiday weekend as many folks bring out the grill, we're going old school. hardwood only, no gas allowed so pass the pulled pork and the brisket and the ribs. kevin tibbles in the pit tonight.
>> i need those ribs, some fatty brisket.
>> reporter: if you're going to break bread with daniel vaughn , better roll up your sleeves, because bread isn't part of the equation.
>> it is the best bite.
>> reporter: vaughn is all about the barbecue. texas barbecue. in his new role at " texas monthly magazine," as the nation's only barbecue reviewer. is that a weighty responsibility?
>> in texas it is, yeah. i mean --
>> you bet.
>> reporter: so most days you can find this transplanted ohioan bellying up to the brisket bar at one of the lone star state 's many smokehouses.
>> half-pound of brisket. that's pork butt right there. what do you call that? this is a family show now, here, barbecue is religion.
>> this is good stuff. it is concentrated smokeyness.
>> reporter: and vaughn seeks that perfect marriage of smoke and meat.
>> this is wonderful.
>> i mean the fatty ends where you get the meat candy. you'll get a hunk of fat and then you'll realize, you know what? i actually just want to eat that anyway.
>> that's why i'm not talking anymore. don't know if you've noticed.
>> reporter: vaughn says he's eaten in more than 600 barbecue joints in the last half dozen years. even tackling flintstone sized short ribs.
>> see, now that's a spare rib . that's no wimpy baby back.
>> reporter: he even sports a pair of cowboy boots displaying various cuts of beef. but keep those napkins handy.
>> do you ever use utensils?
>> i'm born with them!
>> reporter: to aficionados, he's the king, stopping to shake hands, share stories and take a few snaps. does your wife think that you're starting to smell a little bit smokey yourself?
>> she doesn't notice anymore.
>> reporter: remember, folks, you're welcome to make a mess. just don't mess with texas barbecue. kevin tibbles, nbc news, dallas.