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Peru's disappearing holy glacier

Pilgrims have journeyed to Peru's Qoyllur Rit'i (Snow Star) glacier pilgrimage for hundreds, perhaps a thousand years. Now the glacier's sacred ice is melting into thin air, along with rituals that give meaning to the lives of the local people.

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Pilgrims have made the dangerous journey to the high Andes of southern Peru for hundreds of years to pay tribute to the \"apus\" or mountain spirits. Since before the Incas, Andean people have worshipped Qolqepunku Glacier, 50 miles east of Cusco, as a site of sacred ice.

Pre-Columbian rituals to the mountain gods

Pilgrims have made the dangerous journey to the high Andes of southern Peru for hundreds of years to pay tribute to the "apus," or mountain spirits. Since before the Incas, Andean people have worshipped the Qolqepunku Glacier, 50 miles east of Cusco, as a site of sacred ice.

— Jorge Vera
The ice is said to have medicinal and spiritual powers. \"The local people use the ice to make healing drinks and to call forth rain for their crops,\" explained Peru's renowned Andean scholar Jorge Flores Ochoa.

Healing ice

The sacred ice is said to have medicinal and spiritual powers. "The local people use the ice to make healing drinks and to call forth rain for their crops," explained Peru's renowned Andean scholar Jorge Flores Ochoa.

— Jorge Vera
Dances at Qoyllur Rit'i are tied to ancient agricultural and pastoral rituals that date to the Incas and other pre-Columbian cultures. Above, a masked celebrant dressed as a sheep climbs to the glacier to play in the snow and ice.

Blessings for animals

Dances at Qoyllur Rit'i are tied to ancient agricultural and pastoral rituals that date to the Incas and other pre-Columbian cultures. Above, a masked celebrant dressed as a sheep climbs to the glacier to play in the snow and ice.

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Brave men known as ukukus (bear-men) guard the glacier and protect pilgrims from harm. In prior years the ukukus performed an all-night vigil on the glacier, where they prayed to the gods and battled condemned souls (condenados) said to inhabit the icy slopes. At dawn they raced down the mountain with chunks of ice tied to their backs, which was melted into holy water in the church.

Mountain guardians

Men known as ukukus (bear-men) guard the glacier and protect pilgrims from harm. In prior years the ukukus performed an all-night vigil on the glacier, where they prayed to the gods and battled condemned souls (condenados) said to inhabit the icy slopes. At dawn they raced down the mountain with chunks of ice tied to their backs, which was melted into holy water in the church.

— Jorge Vera
Since 2003, however, the ukukus no longer carry the ice down from Qolqepunku. \"We must protect the glacier,\" said one ukuku leader. Pilgrims have been banned from taking the sacred ice since this year. Those who are caught with the contraband ice are whipped by the ukukus, shown climbing the barren mountain above.

Ice removal ban

Since 2003, the ukukus no longer carry ice down from Qolqepunku. "We must protect the glacier," said one ukuku leader. Pilgrims have been banned from taking the sacred ice. Those who are caught with the contraband ice are whipped by the ukukus, shown climbing the barren mountain above.

— Jorge Vera
The largest indigenous pilgrimage in the Western Hemisphere, Qoyllur Rit'i attracts more than 100,000 pilgrims from Peru and Bolivia each May or June. Pilgrims camp in sub-zero temperatures, which have become more extreme with the onset of climate change. A man died overnight of the cold in 2007. More have perished in cravasses that have opened in the glacier.

Gathering of believers

The largest indigenous pilgrimage in the Western Hemisphere, Qoyllur Rit'i attracts more than 100,000 pilgrims from Peru and Bolivia each May or June. Pilgrims camp in sub-zero temperatures, which have become more extreme with the onset of climate change. In 2007, a man froze to death overnight. More have perished in cravasses that have opened in the glacier.

— Jorge Vera
In the last 23 years Peru has lost 30 percent of the surface of its glaciers, reports the country's natural resources institute (INRENA). Glaciers in Peru are retreating an average of 65 feet a year. Experts predict that most of the country's glaciers below 18,000 feet will be gone by 2015

Disappearing act

Glaciers in Peru are retreating an average of 65 feet a year. According to the country's natural resources institute, Peru has lost 30 percent of the surface of its glaciers in the last 23 years. Experts predict that most of the country's glaciers below 18,000 feet will be gone by the year 2015.

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