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Dark, milk or white: On the surface, chocolate seems pretty simple when you put a bar, truffle or candy into one of those three buckets. But in reality, the sweet (or bitter) treat is far more complex. How it’s produced, what part of the world it comes from, what ingredients it’s made with and even how you store it impact chocolate’s flavor — and once you start paying attention to all those factors, you might be surprised by where your preferences lie.
In this episode of For What It’s Worth, NBC Select’s live podcast, NBC Select editorial director Lauren Swanson and I are talking about everything you need to know while shopping for chocolate. We’re also sharing why we believe chocolate is best enjoyed at least once a day (not just during holidays like Valentine’s Day), and getting to the bottom of an age-old debate: Is white chocolate actually chocolate?
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Episode transcript
LAUREN: All right.
ZOE: Welcome.
LAUREN: Welcome back.
ZOE: To our delicious episode.
LAUREN: I’m salivating.
ZOE: I know. We’re talking about chocolate today, and is there anything better than when you have a chocolate craving and then you find a piece, just in that moment? You know, when you can taste it, you can smell it, you’re thinking about it, and then it’s there.
LAUREN: I feel that way in the office a lot. I go on my chocolate hunts, and it’s like, Where, where, where? During holiday time, we had all of those chocolate advent calendars. But then, you know what happened to me quite often, is I would pick a random day and it would be a white chocolate.
ZOE: Oh no, no, no. That’s terrible.
LAUREN: You know, when you want chocolate, and you get a white chocolate, or you get a citrus chocolate, or something that you’re like, that’s not serving my need, my craving. But it was kind of fun.
ZOE: It was fun. I took the liberty — I don’t know if you knew this, so now you know, and I’m going to enhance your life — and I bought us a 500-pack of dark chocolate Hershey’s Kisses. They are at my desk, so if you need them…
LAUREN: I don’t need to know this.
LAUREN: I found two huge boxes of the Lindt yesterday, and I literally stayed late after work when everybody left, and I was guarding that section, and I took a couple of Lindt.
ZOE: Wait, I want to know, are they up for grabs? We have to go ask. We have to find out.
LAUREN: I don’t know, but I took them. They’re not going to miss two pieces.
ZOE: Well, this is my very first question for you: What’s your favorite type of chocolate?
LAUREN: I typically prefer dark chocolate, but recently milk chocolate, because it’s just hitting the spot a little bit more. But not a super sweet milk chocolate. I do not like a white chocolate. I will die on that hill. With white chocolate, I am disappointed. In fact, two of the Lindt’s that I took yesterday were white chocolate, and I got to my desk and audibly went, Oh man. I was so disappointed. But if I had a choice between a milk chocolate covered pretzel or a dark chocolate covered pretzel, I’d do the dark chocolate covered pretzel, because it just is a little more, I don’t know, it feels more hearty.
ZOE: I completely agree with you. I am a dark chocolate girl through and through. I think sometimes, I will be happy about a really good piece of milk chocolate, but I’m going to be a little upset first. If I go into a chocolate shop and the chocolate that I want, like the truffle that I want, let’s say, is only available in milk chocolate, I get upset.
LAUREN: Is milk chocolate your white chocolate?
ZOE: No, I hate white chocolate. White chocolate I’m not even going near. I am not even eating that. If the options are no chocolate or white chocolate, I go with no chocolate, which is saying something, because I love chocolate. But if I go to a place and they have a milk chocolate espresso truffle — which is my favorite, I love an espresso truffle — I will suck it up because I want that flavor of the chocolate and the coffee. And I’ve had plenty of good ones, but then in the back of my mind I’m always like, Oh, this would have been better if it was dark chocolate.
Maybe that’s where we should begin. So, I reported about chocolate last year.
LAUREN: How fun was that?
ZOE: It was truly one of the most fun articles I’ve ever written, because I got to talk to chocolatiers. And how many times in your life do you get to say I spent a week talking to chocolatiers?
LAUREN: How do you become a chocolatier? Do you know?
ZOE: I think there’s two ways that I figured out. One is they went to pastry school and they specialized in chocolate.
LAUREN: Like medicine.
ZOE: I mean, sick. Then, some of them adopted a family business, or were brought into a family business, and so they were kind of trained by someone else in their family, or, someone that owned the store, or something like that. So that’s kind of how they got into chocolate, which I think is the sickest thing ever. Can you imagine if your family business is chocolate?
LAUREN: It’s a Hallmark movie.
ZOE: Oh yes. That would be lovely. Pitch it. I love it. You get the rights to that.
But what I realized while talking to all of these chocolatiers is how just complex the chocolate industry is. I was not prepared for how complex this article would get, and the nitty gritty definitions, and the FDA has a lot to say about chocolate. They make a lot of rules about what’s milk chocolate, what’s white chocolate, what is chocolate? So many rules. So I would have never in a million years known any of that unless I did this article, and now I will never look at the chocolate aisle in the grocery store the same way again.
LAUREN: Okay, so break it down.
ZOE: Well, so let’s talk about chocolate types. We were just having that discussion: milk chocolate, dark chocolate, what is the difference? Is there a difference?
LAUREN: You didn’t even say white chocolate.
ZOE: I was going to and I decided against it.
LAUREN: I know, I could see it on your lips. You’re like, White chocolate, then you’re like, It’s not chocolate.
ZOE: No, it’s not chocolate. We’re not talking about it. But it actually is chocolate.
LAUREN: What is pink chocolate?
ZOE: Pink chocolate is a thing, too.
Okay, so the most important thing when you’re looking at chocolate is the cacao percentage. So that is telling you how much of that chocolate is made from elements of the cocoa bean versus other ingredients like milk and sugar. So if you have 70% on a chocolate bar, that’s saying 70% is made from the cacao bean and all of the elements, and then 30% is made from milk or made from sugar, or maybe other ingredients if they’re adding flavors and stuff. So that’s a really important number to keep in mind when you are shopping. So I always look at that. But then, you get into the nitty gritty: The higher percentages — so let’s say 70, 80, 90 — since it’s made with so much from the cacao bean, that’s when you’re getting into that bitter chocolate taste. And then the lower percentage is when you’re getting that milky, creamier taste because it’s actually made from more milk than it is made from cacao beans, which is crazy to me. So there’s all these different status symbols and status percentages that the FDA will assign to chocolate. So, for example — I took my notes. Ready? Okay. Milk chocolate is at least 10% cocoa and 12% milk solids.
LAUREN: At least 10% cocoa? Is it chocolate, or is it just hardened milk?
ZOE: It’s more milk than chocolate.
LAUREN: Interesting.
ZOE: Crazy, right? Okay, then we have dark chocolate. There is no legal definition from the FDA like there is for milk chocolate, but it’s any chocolate that’s 55% cocoa or higher. That’s typically considered dark. So that means that you can have all these chocolates that are on the, I would say, mid-bitter spectrum, so it’s 55% to, let’s say, 70%, some of those could even be milk chocolate in your head, but technically, according to the FDA, they are dark chocolate.
LAUREN: Interesting.
ZOE: I know. It’s wild that we think of chocolate as this fun, lovely, delicious dessert, but really, behind the scenes, it’s heavily regulated and super, super specific, which I think is just wild. You could want to go into chocolate and then realize, Oh, hold up, there’s a lot of stuff here. It must be what they teach in chocolatier school.
LAUREN: Oh, I imagine, and I imagine that they function differently in the way that they are molded or, you know, whatever you’re doing your medium is with chocolate, like if you’re making it into a cake, or you’re making it into truffles or whatever.
ZOE: Sculptures.. Have you seen those on Instagram? Oh my goodness. I sit there and watch for days.
LAUREN: So what do you think that is? Do you think that that is milk chocolate or dark chocolate?
ZOE: A lot of times, it’s not necessarily about the type of chocolate. It’s about how they treat it. How they heat it versus how they cool it, how fast they heat it and cool it. It’s a lot about manipulating the chocolate rather than just the type.
Okay, so let’s talk about ruby chocolate, or pink chocolate, like you said. This is something that I had never heard of nor seen.
LAUREN: Is it a marketing gimmick?
ZOE: No.
LAUREN: It’s real.
ZOE: It’s real. And the FDA, they haven’t totally regulated it yet, but it’s definitely coming up. There’s bubblings of conversations about it. So it’s made from a specific type of cacao bean, the Ruby cacao bean, which is pink. So that’s why it gets its color. And it tastes very similar to milk chocolate. No, I would actually say more of a white chocolate, in my opinion. Yes, I would say it tastes more like a white chocolate.
LAUREN: Gross.
ZOE: I know. I was disappointed. I was hoping it would be like chocolatey-er, and that’s why I was hoping it’d be closer to a milk chocolate. But really it’s almost that yogurt-like flavor, you know, that you get from milk chocolate?
LAUREN: Yes, I know exactly the feeling.
ZOE: I was disappointed. I was a little disappointed. I wouldn’t say that’s something that I’m going to go out and buy and snack on? But it’s cool. It’s pretty.
LAUREN: If you were having a pink themed party or something, do like the ruby chocolate, let it have its moment. But then it’s not the chocolate that you’re grabbing for when you really just need a little something.
ZOE: I like to use it to melt, and then I make my chocolate covered strawberries with dark chocolate and white chocolate over them.
LAUREN: Oh, interesting.
ZOE: So I use it as a little accent.
LAUREN: Cute.
ZOE: Okay, so then let’s talk about white chocolate. Do you think it’s actually chocolate?
LAUREN: Well, you gave me the answer that it is chocolate.
ZOE: Did you think it wasn’t.
LAUREN: Yes, I actually did think it wasn’t chocolate. I thought it was just like a marketing thing.
ZOE: So it actually is chocolate. And I think it’s so interesting because so many people would go to their grave saying it’s not, but according to the FDA, it is.
LAUREN: I would have, up until about five minutes ago.
ZOE: So it is considered a chocolate. This is the definition: It has different ingredients than milk and dark chocolate. It’s missing cocoa solids, which is that part of the cocoa bean that gets ground up and gives it the brown color. So it’s still made from components of a cocoa bean, which is why it’s chocolate, but it’s missing that brown powder, basically. So that’s why.
LAUREN: Okay, but then that feels like it’s not. If it’s missing something that the other chocolate does have…
ZOE: But it’s still made from components of the cocoa bean, just not that one. You know I’m saying? So it’s not like there’s no parts of the cocoa bean. No? You’re not convinced?
LAUREN: It’s going to be harder to convince me that it actually is. It’s missing stuff.
ZOE: It’s missing stuff. I don’t disagree with that at all.
LAUREN: And the stuff that it’s missing, you feel the absence. You taste the absence.
ZOE: You know something is missing. I completely agree with you. But yes, it is chocolate.
All right, now we have to talk about how to store chocolate. I’m going to admit something. I’m going to get something off my chest: I like to freeze my chocolate.
LAUREN: Me too.
ZOE: Every chocolatier I talked to audibly gasped when I told them that.
LAUREN: Really?
ZOE: The worst thing to do is to put your chocolate in the fridge or the freezer.
LAUREN: Let me ask you a question: What kind of chocolate are we talking about? Are we talking about Halloween candy chocolate or fancy chocolate?ZOE: Oh, I see what you’re saying.
LAUREN: With Halloween candy chocolate, if I had a chocolatier gasp that I put it in the freezer, I would call them out on it. Because I would bet you that you could check one of their freezers, they would have a Reese’s or something in there.
ZOE: I think they’re talking about their chocolate, you know? The kind you get from a chocolate shop.
LAUREN: I wouldn’t put a fancy truffle that I went to a special chocolate boutique for in the freezer, that has tahini in it or something like that. I wouldn’t put that in the freezer. But my Kit Kat, my Reese’s, my Snickers — freezer. Every single day after work, Chad goes to the grocery store and picks up a bar of chocolate. And he pretends that he doesn’t, but he does, and it goes in our freezer, and I see it, and then he comes close to me, and he’s got chocolate breath. And I’m like, Did you go and get a chocolate bar? But he always gets the dark chocolate, the healthy ones.
ZOE: I really like those.
LAUREN: He’s like, You’re supposed to have a little chocolate every day.
ZOE: Listen, if there is one thing that I believe, it’s that you need to have chocolate once a day. I have chocolate after dinner every day, and if I don’t, it’s an emergency.
LAUREN: Do you feel like it’s a little bit of a Pavlovian response though?
ZOE: 1,000%.
LAUREN: After dinner, you’re like, My mouth tastes sweet.
ZOE: Yes. Literally, one time we were at a hotel, and I think we were visiting my brother in Boston. And normally — this is embarrassing to admit — but normally, when we get to our destination, wherever it may be, I go to the nearest pharmacy and I get my favorite drugstore chocolate. And I didn’t this day, and I realized it after dinner when we were back in the hotel room, and I’m like, Oh my God, I don’t have chocolate. I’m not going to make it through the night. And so I went downstairs to the lobby, and they had a little shop, and the only thing they had was chocolate covered nuts. And I like chocolate covered nuts, but that’s not what I wanted in the moment. So obviously, I got it because I wasn’t going to not have chocolate, but I was devastated. So yes, I totally agree with Chad: Chocolate at least once a day.
LAUREN: We’ll get back to storage, but what’s your favorite chocolate covered something?
ZOE: Chocolate covered strawberries, I would say. I would actually go as far as to say it’s my favorite food on the planet of Earth. I think it’s the best food ever, ever, ever. I love a dark chocolate covered pretzel.
LAUREN: That’s my airport snack. I mean, as soon as I get to the airport — this is my Pavilion response — I get to the airport, and I’m like, I need a chocolate covered pretzel.
ZOE: I get that.
LAUREN: And I have to go to one of the stands, and if they don’t have a chocolate covered pretzel, I’m disappointed. I’m like, This plane is going down. This is a bad sign. There’s no good things happening.
ZOE: Negativity only.
LAUREN: There’s negativity. I’m in a bad mood. And if they do, then I’m sitting there, flying high.
ZOE: This is about to be the nicest, smoothest flight I’ve ever been on. I totally get that.
LAUREN: I love it. That’s my treat. I love chocolate covered pretzels. I love chocolate covered strawberries. Those are elite.
ZOE: You said cherries too, right? I love those.
LAUREN: Dark chocolate covered cherries? So good.
ZOE: I could taste it, actually, right now.
LAUREN: Me too.
ZOE: I literally can taste it. I started getting those. There’s a couple chocolate shops that I really love downtown, and I went recently, and I don’t know why, but the cherry was just calling my name over everything else in the case. They didn’t have strawberries, so I was like, We’ve got to find something else. And it was so good. And now every time I go, I have to get it. I can’t not have it anymore.
LAUREN: I pop them like popcorn.
ZOE: Oh, do you like chocolate covered popcorn?
LAUREN: I’ve never had it.
ZOE: Oh, it’s very good.
LAUREN: Have I had that? I don’t think I’ve had that.
ZOE: It’s very, very nice to have some chocolate covered popcorn. I would highly recommend it.
LAUREN: Really?
ZOE: Because it’s that sweet, salty thing that you get from the pretzel, but I like that you bite into it and it’s not as crunchy as a pretzel. It’s a little softer, but it’s still so good.
LAUREN: What about a chocolate covered potato chip?
ZOE: You know what? I’ve never had one.
LAUREN: Neither have I.
ZOE: But they sound great.
LAUREN: I’m sure I’ve had it at some point. Like somebody handed me one, but I’ve never sought it out.
ZOE: I went to a very, I would say, unique chocolate shop when I was in Salt Lake City one year, actually, and they had chocolate covered obscure foods, like chocolate covered grasshoppers. We’re talking crazy. And my brother got chocolate covered bacon, and he said it wasn’t bad.
LAUREN: I can imagine that it wasn’t bad.
ZOE: I can imagine that it was probably pretty good.
LAUREN: How do you feel about chocolate covered citrus?
ZOE: Well, I can’t have it. I’m allergic, unfortunately.
LAUREN: That’s right. So you feel bad about it?
ZOE: I do feel bad about it. How do you feel about it?
LAUREN: Neutral.
ZOE: Neutral, okay.
LAUREN: I know people that love it. Like, my grandpa used to love chocolate covered orange peels.
ZOE: I see those all the time in the chocolate shops.
LAUREN: But it’s not something that I could say that I seek out either.
ZOE: I understand that. Interesting. I know, I feel like chocolate covered anything sounds good, but then when you actually have your favorites versus things that you were just meh about, you start to realize that maybe that’s not the case. Maybe you can’t cover everything in chocolate and like it.
LAUREN: Sometimes I think it’s a gimmick.
ZOE: Me too.
LAUREN: But chocolate covered strawberries.
ZOE: There’s nothing better, ever. Literally nothing better. When I was in college, they opened a Kilwins above my apartment, which was horrible for me, obviously. Very dangerous stuff. Very dangerous stuff. But every year, they only made their chocolate covered strawberries for Valentine’s Day, and you had to special order them. And I literally bookmarked it on my calendar: Put your Kilwins order in. And one year, I forgot, and I was heartbroken. I was so upset. I went in one day…
LAUREN: You were heartbroken on Valentine.
ZOE: I was heartbroken on Valentine’s Day. I went and I was begging. I was like, Please, please, please, please, please, please. Do you have the extras? They found me two, and I felt seen in that moment.
LAUREN: Here’s the thing: As wonderful as they were to find you two, I would feel so unsatiated with two. I need a platter. I need to eat so many that I get sick. If I have two, I’m wanting more.
ZOE: I get it. So when you have your chocolate covered strawberries, are you eating those all in one sitting? Are you putting them in the fridge?
LAUREN: One sitting. Eat until I get sick.
ZOE: That’s impressive.
LAUREN: This is Lauren’s favorite foods philosophy: You’ve got to eat them until you get sick. Chocolate covered strawberries being one of them, popcorn being another. I love movie theater popcorn to the point where I will eat so much of it — I will get a large refillable tub of it, eat the whole thing, and then eat half of the refill, and then be sick for the next two days. And I’m like…
ZOE: Well, you know what? Worth it.
LAUREN: Worth it. That will carry me over for the next four months before I see another movie.
ZOE: Exactly. I think everything in moderation, except when you have your favorite foods list. I love this. I love this philosophy.
LAUREN: All right, back to storage.
ZOE: Okay, back to storage.
LAUREN: So don’t put it in the freezer.
ZOE: So no, unfortunately, no freezer and no fridge. Because there’s two things that could happen. The first is fat bloom, which is when all of the fat, the cocoa butter of the chocolate ,rises to the surface, and it creates almost a murky, kind of swirly look on top. It’s not necessarily dangerous or bad or anything, but it does affect the flavor a little bit and the texture. And so you’re not going to get that delicious chocolate that you expect. It’s going to alter it a little bit. The thing happens with sugar bloom: The sugar rises to the surface. It’s almost like these little crystals start cracking in the chocolate, which honestly looks pretty cool.
LAUREN: That sounds great.
ZOE: It looks pretty cool, but again, it does affect the flavor and the texture. So you kind of have to make a tough call if you’re like me. I put all of my Ghirardelli squares straight into the freezer. That’s how I want it. I know that I am causing my chocolatier friends pain, but it’s just what I have to do with those specific chocolates. My nightly Ghirardelli Square has got to be from the freezer. It’s just got to be.
LAUREN: I want to crack a tooth on that frozen chocolate.
ZOE: Me too. I know I’m altering the flavor, but it is what it is.
Do you know what the most important thing I learned from them was? Because I knew that in the back of my head about the freezer.
LAUREN: You were embarrassed. You’re like, I’ve got a skeleton in my closet and chocolate in my freezer.
ZOE: 100%. But the most important thing I learned is that when you’re storing chocolate — be it a bar, chocolate chips, the fancy ones you get from the store, whatever it is — do not put them near really fragrant spices or garlic, because they absorb all of those odors. And let’s say you put a chocolate bar that wasn’t stored well next to a clove of garlic, and you just left it there for a while.
LAUREN: Now you’ve got chocolate covered garlic.
ZOE: You’re going back to get that chocolate bar, and it’s going to taste like garlic.
LAUREN: Okay, so I kind of feel like I knew that a little bit, but only because our freezer kind of also has freezer smells, and I feel like the chocolate absorbs the freezer smells if it’s not entirely packaged.
ZOE: 100%. So that’s the most important thing I learned. And I was like, Wow, I need to rearrange my kitchen now because for my baking, I have all my chocolate chips. I really had to reconsider where I was putting everything because I was like, Whoa, I’m definitely not doing this right.
LAUREN: I mean, can you hack it, though? Like, if you put your chocolate chips near cinnamon or something that’s fragrant, but in a good way that compliments it?
ZOE: I don’t know. That’s a good question. I think we should experiment.
LAUREN: Like, make scent-infused chocolate.
ZOE: I’m obsessed.
LAUREN: I’m sure that’s a thing.
ZOE: I completely agree with you.
LAUREN: I’m going to pretend like I created it, though.
ZOE: I’m so fine with that, and your Hallmark movie for you to bookmark.
LAUREN: Thank you.
ZOE: We’ve talked about some of our favorite chocolates in general, but let’s talk about, specifically, chocolates that we love and live and die for. For me, I would say my top chocolate ever is the Ghirardelli Squares, dark chocolate with sea salt. Now, that is very hard to find.
LAUREN: It’s not filled. Is it filled?
ZOE: No. It is challenging to find. In any pharmacy, any Target, I can find the 80% intense, no salt squares. Fine, I will have it. But the best ones on the planet are the dark chocolate sea salt ones. That’s my number one, I would say, casual everyday chocolate. I love Hershey’s Kisses dark chocolate. I keep those on my desk. I think those are great. But the Ghirardelli really is it for me. Do you have one that you just grab at the grocery store, or grab at the pharmacy?
LAUREN: I would grab — I mean, stuffed chocolate is chocolate, right?
ZOE Yes.
LAUREN: I would grab a Reese’s. I love Reese’s. You know what I think is a really good sign of maturity in adulthood? When you start to gravitate towards filled chocolate, or filled donuts. Jelly filled donuts, I hated them as a child, but now as an adult, it took me a few decades, but now I’m coming around to it. I think it’s a sign of adulthood when you like jelly filled or filled things.
ZOE: I love this.
LAUREN: I feel that way about chocolate, too. Some of the Lindts I stole yesterday have creamy centers. As a child, I would have hated the creamy center. As an adult, I was like, This is nice.
ZOE: Wow, that is mature of you. I love that.
LAUREN: So I love a Reese’s. I am good with a Ghirardelli with caramel inside. That’s good. That feels like it hits the spot. I love a Twix. Actually, my classic number one favorite from childhood to adulthood — I love a Nestle Crunch.
ZOE: Good one.
LAUREN: Even though they are too sweet for my taste — I do actually think I prefer a dark chocolate — the milk chocolate of Nestle Crunch is too sweet for me now, but there’s just something about it that’s like, I can have a little bit of this and be and be happy.
Actually, this is what I just remembered: My all-time favorite chocolate, which is so contradictory to everything that I have said for the last several minutes…
ZOE: Are you about to tell me white chocolate? You are.
LAUREN: A Nestle Cookies and Cream Crunch.
ZOE: That’s a deep cut.
LAUREN: Yes, I love it. But I think it’s more because I like the cookies and cream part of it.
ZOE: Yes, maybe you’re not thinking of it as white chocolate.
LAUREN: I mean, maybe if it was made with dark chocolate, I would like it.
ZOE: Have you ever had the Compartés chocolate? I hope I’m pronouncing that right.
LAUREN: No, but I know we’ve gotten them.
ZOE: Oh, man. If you want to be adventurous and talk about mature, adulthood chocolate. First of all, they are works of art. They are the most stunning little chocolates.
LAUREN: Didn’t they make a chess board of chocolate one year?
ZOE: Yes, they make the craziest stuff. And the each truffle is literally painted with this gorgeous image, and then you bite into it, and they’re all, well, most of them, I think, are filled with flavors, or caramels or whatever. And the flavors are out of this world. I’m usually not an adventurous chocolate eater. I will go for a caramel one sometimes, or a truffle center or whatever. I’m not going to go for wasabi-filled chocolate, for example, but they’ve convinced me to because of the way they make it. It’s insane. I highly recommend that to anyone who wants to up their chocolate game. That would be like my fancy, luxury chocolate splurge. I challenge everyone to do that. So those are my recommendations.
LAUREN: So now everybody knows what we’re doing for Valentine’s Day: We are stuffing our faces with chocolate covered strawberries, which is exactly how I would want to spend the day.
ZOE: Honestly, I don’t think anything sounds better than that.
LAUREN: No, that’s top tier.
ZOE: Yes, so I hope you do the same. Bye.
LAUREN: Bye.
Why trust NBC Select?
I’m a reporter at NBC Select and I co-host our live podcast, For What It’s Worth, with editorial director Lauren Swanson. In this article, I summarize Episode 13: Everything You Need to Know About Shopping for Chocolate. I included a summary of the episode, a transcript, products we recommend during the podcast and related articles.
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